The Basics
Jumping spiders are small, daytime-active pets with big personalities — curious, colorful, and fun to watch. Many owners say each spider has its own character.
We usually sell young adults (roughly 4–6 months old, almost fully grown), which are hardy, colorful, and active. With proper care, most species live 1–2 years; females typically outlive males.
Small Space, Big Personality
A 3×3×6 inch enclosure is plenty for one adult jumper. They don't need large terrariums.
Active During the Day
You'll see the most activity during daylight hours. No special night lighting needed.
Easy to Feed
Fruit flies for juveniles, small crickets or flies for adults. Inexpensive and simple.
Low Maintenance
Spot-clean weekly, mist lightly 2–3 times per week, and feed every 2–4 days.
Habitat Setup
Jumping spiders love to climb. A tall enclosure with good airflow works best.
Enclosure requirements
- Minimum size: 3×3×6 inches (8×8×15 cm) for one adult
- Material: Acrylic or glass with a secure, ventilated lid
- Airflow: Air holes on different sides (or mesh panels) — stale, still air causes problems
- Opening: Front-opening or top-opening with a secure latch (jumpers are escape artists)
Floor bedding (optional)
Jumpers do not need anything on the floor. A thin layer of coco fiber or peat moss is optional if you want help holding humidity — keep it barely damp, not wet. Use a small cup or dish for feeders so food stays easy to find.
Room airflow
Keep the room where your spiders live gently ventilated — a small fan on low, open door, or central AC moving air through the space. Stagnant, still air around enclosures makes mold and mites more likely even when the enclosure itself is ventilated.
Decor & enrichment
- Cork bark or branch — Primary perch and climbing structure
- Artificial plant or leaf — Provides a web anchor and hiding spot
- Small hide — Half a cork round or a curled leaf at mid-height
Keep it simple
Jumpers don't need elaborate setups. A branch, a leaf, and a clean enclosure is often all they want. Over-decorating can make it harder to find your spider and spot uneaten prey.
We offer an optional $25 Enclosure Kit (3×3×6 enclosure, cork bark, mist bottle, and months' worth of buffalo beetle larvae) you can add at checkout — jumpers do not need floor bedding.
Temperature & Humidity
Jumping spiders are remarkably adaptable. Most species we offer thrive at normal household conditions without special equipment.
| Parameter | Ideal Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 68–78°F (20–26°C) | Room temperature is usually perfect |
| Humidity | 50–70% relative humidity | Light misting maintains this easily |
| Lighting | Indirect natural light | No special UV lamp needed; avoid direct hot sun |
Misting schedule
Lightly mist one wall of the enclosure 2–3 times per week. You want brief droplets for drinking, not a soaking wet environment. If floor bedding stays constantly wet, reduce misting — too much moisture promotes mold and mites.
Drinking tip
Jumping spiders drink from water droplets on enclosure walls, not from a water dish. A fine mist on the glass is how they hydrate.
Feeding Your Jumping Spider
Jumping spiders are active predators with hearty appetites. Feeding frequency depends on prey size, spider size, and whether your spider is approaching a molt.
Prey by life stage
| Spider Size | Recommended Prey | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Juvenile (under ½") | Small flightless fruit flies | Every 2–3 days, 2–3 flies |
| Young adult (½"–¾") | Larger fruit flies or tiny crickets | Every 3–4 days, 1–2 prey items |
| Adult (¾"+) | Small crickets, mealworms, or blue bottle flies | Every 4–5 days, 1 prey item |
Feeding rules
- Offer prey roughly ½ the body size of your spider
- Remove uneaten live prey after 24 hours — crickets can stress or injure a molting spider
- Do not feed when your spider is getting ready to molt (it stops eating, slows down, and may weave a thick web mat)
- Feed your feeder insects nutritious food (fresh fruit or commercial feeder food) before offering them to your spider
- Never feed wild-caught insects — they may carry pesticides or parasites
Starting a fruit fly culture
To culture your own, use a deli cup with media (instant mashed potato mix or commercial fly media), add 20–30 flies, and keep at room temperature. A new culture every 3–4 weeks keeps food flowing.
After Your Spider Arrives
The first 48 hours after shipping are important for settling in. Your spider has been through transit and needs a calm, stable environment.
Open gently, in a safe space
Unpack near the enclosure with doors closed and windows in mind. Open the travel cup slowly — jumpers can bolt when startled.
Transfer to the enclosure
Coax the spider onto a leaf or deli cup lid, then guide it inside. Alternatively, place the open cup inside the enclosure and let it walk out on its own.
Wait 24 hours before feeding
Give your spider a full day to explore and de-stress. Offer a light mist on one wall so it can drink.
First meal
After 24 hours, offer one small prey item. If refused, wait another 2 days and try again. Refusal during the first week is normal.
Review our live arrival guarantee if you have any concerns about your spider's condition upon delivery.
Molting
Jumping spiders molt (shed their outer shell) to grow. Molt time is the most vulnerable period in a spider's life — your job is to leave them completely alone.
Signs a molt is coming
- Refusing food for 5–14 days
- Abdomen appears darker or shinier than usual
- Spider becomes less active, stays in one spot
- May build a thick silk mat or hammock on a perch
During the molt
- Do not disturb — No misting directly on the spider, no feeding, no handling
- Remove any live prey from the enclosure immediately
- Keep the room quiet and avoid bumping the enclosure
- The molt itself usually takes 30 minutes to a few hours
After the molt
Wait 3–5 days after a successful molt before feeding. The new outer shell needs time to harden. Offer a light mist after 48 hours. Your spider's colors may appear brighter and more vivid after molting.
Handling & Interaction
Jumping spiders are more tolerant of human interaction than most spider species, but handling should always be optional — never forced.
Safe handling tips
- Let the spider walk onto your hand — hold your palm flat near a perch and let it choose to step on
- Keep your hand low over a soft surface in case of a jump
- Sessions should be brief — 5–10 minutes max to avoid stress
- Never grab, pinch, or cup a jumping spider from above (they see this as predation)
- Wash hands before and after — good for you and the spider
Reading your spider's mood
- Curious / relaxed: Moves toward you, raises head to look around, slow deliberate steps
- Nervous: Rapid zigzag movement, hiding, raising front legs in a threat display
- Hungry: Pacing, tracking movement outside the enclosure, lunging at prey
Many owners enjoy simply watching their spider's daily routines without handling at all. A well-placed enclosure on your desk provides endless entertainment.
Our Species at a Glance
Each species we offer has slightly different care needs. All thrive with the general guidelines above, but here are species-specific notes for the jumpers in our adoption program.
| Species | Size | Personality | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Phidippus regius | Large | Friendly, bold | Excellent beginner species. Tolerates observation well. Males have orange bands. |
| Phidippus arizonensis | Medium | Calm | Hardy southwestern species. Earth-tone coloration with red abdominal accent. |
| Phidippus apacheanus | Medium | Bold, active | Males are vividly red and black. Very active hunters — enjoy watching them stalk prey. |
| Phidippus carolinensis | Medium | Curious | Eastern US native. Compact and watchful. Does well at standard room conditions. |
| Paraphidippus fartilis | Medium | Gentle | Sleek build with a calm disposition. Slightly prefers higher humidity (60–70%). |
| Phidippus mystaceus | Medium | Active, bold | High eyelashed jumping spider — southwestern species with distinctive white tufts above the mouth. Gray-tan coloration; hardy at room conditions. |
Troubleshooting
My spider won't eat
Most common causes: getting ready to molt, still settling in after arrival (first 1–2 weeks), food too large, or enclosure too stressful. Try a smaller prey item, ensure the enclosure is in a quiet location, and wait a few days. If refusal lasts more than 3 weeks with no signs of an upcoming molt, contact us.
My spider is hiding constantly
Normal while settling in, before a molt, or after a disturbance. If your spider is newly arrived, give it a week. If hiding persists beyond 2 weeks with no signs of an upcoming molt, check that the enclosure isn't in direct sunlight or a high-traffic area.
Mold in the enclosure
Remove moldy bedding or decor immediately. Reduce misting frequency. Spot-clean uneaten prey within 24 hours — decaying insects cause mold.
My spider escaped
Don't panic. Place the open enclosure on the floor near where it escaped with the front facing out. Jumpers are curious and often return on their own within hours. Search at eye level on walls, curtains, and furniture. They tend not to go far.