The Basics
Jumping spiders are small, daytime-active pets with big personalities — curious, colorful, and fun to watch. Many owners say each spider has its own character.
We usually sell young adults (roughly 4–6 months old, almost fully grown), which are hardy, colorful, and active. With proper care, most species live 1–2 years; females typically outlive males.
Small Space, Big Personality
A 3×3×6 inch enclosure is plenty for one adult jumper. They don't need large terrariums.
Active During the Day
You'll see the most activity during daylight hours. No special night lighting needed.
Easy to Feed
Fruit flies for juveniles, small crickets or flies for adults. Inexpensive and simple.
Low Maintenance
Spot-clean weekly, mist lightly 2–3 times per week, and feed every 2–4 days.
Habitat Setup
Jumpers climb — use a tall enclosure with cross ventilation (air holes or mesh on more than one side) and openings small enough the spider cannot squeeze through. Fine mesh over larger holes works well. Minimum about 3×3×6 inches for one adult; acrylic with a secure latch.
- Floor: Optional thin coco fiber / peat — barely damp, never wet. Jumpers do not need bedding.
- Decor: Cork bark or a branch, a leaf for web anchors, keep it simple so you can find the spider and spot uneaten prey.
- Room: Gentle room airflow helps prevent mold even when the enclosure is ventilated.
Optional $20 Enclosure Kit at checkout (3×3×6 enclosure, cork, leaf vine, mist bottle, and months' worth of buffalo beetle larvae or meal worms, depending on availability).
Temperature & Humidity
Jumping spiders are remarkably adaptable. Most species we offer thrive at normal household conditions without special equipment.
| Parameter | Ideal Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 68–78°F (20–26°C) | Room temperature is usually perfect |
| Humidity | 50–70% relative humidity | Light misting maintains this easily |
| Lighting | Indirect natural light | No special UV lamp needed; avoid direct hot sun |
Misting schedule
Lightly mist one wall of the enclosure 2–3 times per week. You want brief droplets for drinking, not a soaking wet environment. If floor bedding stays constantly wet, reduce misting — too much moisture promotes mold and mites.
Drinking tip
Jumping spiders drink from water droplets on enclosure walls, not from a water dish. A fine mist on the acrylic walls is how they hydrate.
Feeding Your Jumping Spider
Match prey to spider size with the chart below. Aim for about ½ the spider's body size. Gut-load feeders; never use wild-caught insects. Remove uneaten live prey within 24 hours.
If your spider is not eating
- Molt first? Stopped eating, less active, or a thick silk hammock → do not force-feed. See Molting.
- Try another feeder from the chart (tiny cricket, mealworm / buffalo beetle larva, different fly size) or go smaller.
- Quiet + wait — first week after arrival, refusal is common; wait a day or two between tries.
Fruit fly cultures
Deli cup + media (instant mash or commercial fly media) + 20–30 flies at room temp. Refresh every 3–4 weeks.
After Your Spider Arrives
The first 48 hours after shipping are important for settling in. Your spider has been through transit and needs a calm, stable environment.
Open gently, in a safe space
Unpack near the enclosure with doors closed and windows in mind. Open the travel cup slowly — jumpers can bolt when startled.
Transfer to the enclosure
Coax the spider onto a leaf or deli cup lid, then guide it inside. Alternatively, place the open cup inside the enclosure and let it walk out on its own.
Wait 24 hours before feeding
Give your spider a full day to explore and de-stress. Offer a light mist on one wall so it can drink.
First meal
After 24 hours, offer one small prey item. If refused, wait another 2 days and try again. Refusal during the first week is normal.
Review our live arrival guarantee if you have any concerns about your spider's condition upon delivery.
Molting
Spiders shed to grow. This is when they are most vulnerable — leave them alone. Follow the charts; when in doubt, wait 3–5 days after a molt before a normal meal.
Quick checklist: remove live prey as soon as a hammock appears · no handling · no heavy mist on the spider · no feeding until the shell has hardened (see chart).
Handling & Interaction
Jumping spiders are more tolerant of human interaction than most spider species, but handling should always be optional — never forced.
Safe handling tips
- Let the spider walk onto your hand — hold your palm flat near a perch and let it choose to step on
- Keep your hand low over a soft surface in case of a jump
- Sessions should be brief — 5–10 minutes max to avoid stress
- Never grab, pinch, or cup a jumping spider from above (they see this as predation)
- Wash hands before and after — good for you and the spider
Reading your spider's mood
- Curious / relaxed: Moves toward you, raises head to look around, slow deliberate steps
- Nervous: Rapid zigzag movement, hiding, raising front legs in a threat display
- Hungry: Pacing, tracking movement outside the enclosure, lunging at prey
Many owners enjoy simply watching their spider's daily routines without handling at all. A well-placed enclosure on your desk provides endless entertainment.
Our Species at a Glance
Each species we offer has slightly different care needs. All thrive with the general guidelines above, but here are species-specific notes for the jumpers in our adoption program.
| Species | Size | Personality | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Phidippus regius | Large | Friendly, bold | Excellent beginner species. Tolerates observation well. Males have orange bands. |
| Phidippus arizonensis | Medium | Calm | Sleek build with a calm disposition. Comes from drier regions, so it needs less humidity than a Regal. Don't let the enclosure stay damp. Give a light mist at each feeding, and keep misting on that schedule even if the spider isn't eating or is in premolt. |
| Phidippus apacheanus | Medium | Bold, active | Males are vividly red and black. Very active hunters — enjoy watching them stalk prey. |
| Phidippus carolinensis | Medium | Curious | Eastern US native. Compact and watchful. Does well at standard room conditions. |
| Paraphidippus fartilis | Medium | Gentle | Sleek proportions and a gentle disposition. Keep misting light at feedings; do not leave the enclosure soaked. |
| Phidippus mystaceus | Medium | Active, bold | High eyelashed jumping spider — southwestern species with distinctive white tufts above the mouth. Gray-tan coloration; hardy at room conditions. |
Troubleshooting
- Won't eat: Check Feeding (different / smaller prey) and Molting. First week after arrival is often quiet. Over ~3 weeks with no molt signs → contact us.
- Hiding a lot: Normal when new, before a molt, or after a scare. Give a week; avoid direct sun and heavy traffic.
- Mold: Clean it out, mist less, remove uneaten prey within 24 hours, confirm cross ventilation.
- Escaped: Leave the open enclosure nearby on the floor; search walls/curtains at eye level. Use a secure lid and escape-proof holes next time.
Research before you email (non-urgent)
For non-urgent questions, check this guide plus YouTube, a search engine, or an AI assistant first. Email us for urgent issues (possible DOA / live arrival claim, injury) or after you have already tried the basics.